16th April
We started the drive to Christmas Mountains Oasis, directions in hand and a recommendation to use our odometer to ensure we took the correct track. There were also warnings that there is no cell service and 'too many have got lost, don't let it happen to you'. Even on the tarmac road, we wondered what might possess people to actually live out here in the shacks and somewhat mature RVs. We found 'Lost Road', then 'Snake Road' all the time thankful that we'd turned down the Camry at the car rental firm. This track was beyond 'rough'. We actually wished we had 4x4 drive as it was, at least we had good clearance.
The oasis was developed by Caroline Ohl when she used to live there with her first husband some years ago. He had since died and she now lives in a small town. We actually met her while seeing what was in her garden one morning. Unfortunately she had just been in to feed the birds and flushed everything off. It was really interesting to talk to her, still an active birder despite her advanced years.
On arrival there was a couple already there photographing the birds present. We were expecting all manner of birdlife but, to be honest, it didn't really live up to our expectations. Most of the potential species to be seen just didn't materialise (although not helped by the photographers who kept disturbing the feeders to go back to their vehicle.
Lucifer Hummingbird
Brewer's Sparrow
House Finch
The reservoir
Despite the feeders and reservoir we didn't do well here, and before midday we were braving the track for a second time, then on our way to Big Bend to stay at the Chisos Mountain Lodge.
First stop, Panther Junction visitor centre for park maps.
One of the better places to work seemed to be the Dugout wells so we tried it a couple of times. Sadly no water to be found, except a rapidly drying puddle on the one way track in. This was where we saw the majority of birds.
Sage Thrasher
Yellow-headed Blackbird
Great Roadrunner at the puddle, topped up by us and others no doubt.
Mockingbird, a species present throughout our trip
Lark Sparrow
Casa Grande
Mexican Jay
Approaching sunset as we walked to the viewpoint
Sunset at the window
The next morning Chris left before dawn to tackle the Pinnacles trail as far as Boot Canyon, a site for Colima Warbler. I didn't like the rate of climb and stayed around the centre, taking some of the trails in part to take photographs.
Desert Cottontail
Audubon's Warbler
Wilson's Warbler
Chris intended to be back before the heat got too bad. He had made it over the rim, climbing over a 1000ft up, and been up to the spring at Boot Canyon, but saw no Colima Warblers and there were very few other birds on the trail. The views were spectacular.
We met up at about 11:30am. Chris had fallen on the way down, trapping his foot between two rock, but thankfully he was relatively unscathed. We decided to try at the wells again and after a quick clean up we were on our way.
Rangers on Rattlesnake duty outside the Panther Junction visitor centre
Northern Parula
Phainopepla
So much sparsely vegetated landscape. Even if a likely stand of larger scrubs was
spotted it was unwise to wander off the tracks due to poisonous snakes and spiders.
We departed Big Bend and headed for Sanderson, a choice to reduce the next day's move on to San Antonio. Any wet area is worth a stop and check in these dry conditions.
Red-eared Slider
Texas shiny softshell turtle
The vast open landscape continued for a long while, then gradually there were signs,
if subsequently abandoned of habitation.
After Sanderson, where we narrowly managed to get something to eat in the evening, as there was so little there, we continued via Amistad Recreational Centre. The reservoir is on the Rio Grande and has suffered from falling water levels over recent years. The water was a bit too far to see much and it was windy. We enjoyed watching the Hirundines.
Amstad reservoir
Train trestle over Lake Amistad
The dam associated with the reservoir, also known as Lake Amistad, near Del Rio is a border crossing with Mexico. It connects Texas to the Mexican state of Coahuila with thousands of vehicles crossing daily.
The church at the Alamo
We continued on the San Antonio where the traffic was much better than when we last past through. We were staying at the Crockett Hotel and took the late afternoon to explore the historical site. We did our final packing ready for the flight and after a fabulous steak dinner watching Rodeo on the bar screen enjoyed a very comfortable night.
Next morning and it's what could even be described as somewhat chilly, with brief light showers. We worked Mitchell Lakes. There had obviously been more water in the past but many lakes and ponds were now dry and from the vegetation had been dry for a long time. We enjoyed the birds, accompanied by the sound of gunshots as the Police training facility is adjacent.
American Avocets
Wilson's Phalaropes, some of the 97 present
Least Sandpiper
Carolina Wren
Then it was time to head back to the airport. It had been a long trip that we really enjoyed, despite the heat, distances and frustrations of absent birds.
The hand book has seen better days, but there may be a few more trips in it yet.
Accommodation
All the hotels and motels were clean enough. Some that offered breakfast did better than others.
Baymont by Wyndham, Cuero - very good breakfast
Quality Inn, Rockport - good breakfast, by the sea
Americas Best Value Inn, Harlingen - good breakfast
Holiday Inn, Rio Grande - good breakfast
Ecolodge, Kingsville - breakfast not included
Best Western, Jasper - okay breakfast
Crystal Palace Resort, High Island - no breakfast included. We recommend Hughston's
Inn of the Hills, Kerrville - Excellent breakfast but not included
Quality Inn, Junction - okay breakfast
Whispering Palm Inn, Del Rio - breakfast included but we ate breakfast out for a change
Quality Inn, Alpine - good breakfast
Chisos Mountain Lodge - good breakfast available in restaurant at separate charge.
Desert Air Motel, Sanderson - great breakfast in the bus!!!
Crockett Hotel, San Antonio - limited breakfast items, included
Birding sites
Goose Island State Park
Linda S. Castro in Fulton
Holt Paradise Pond
Leonabelle Turnbull Birding Centre
Laguna Atascosa, National Wildlife Reserve
Sabal Palm Sanctuary
Oliveira Park, Botanical Gardens Brownsville
Estero Llano Grande SP World Birding Centre
Santa Anna NWR (closed on our visit due to flooding)
Bentsen Rio Grande State Park
Salineno Wildlife Preserve
San Ygnacio Seedeater Sanctuary
Kings Ranch
Angelina National Forest
Martin Dies State Park
Boy Scout Woods, High Island
Smiths Oaks, High Island
Bolivar Flats, High Island
Anahuac National Wildlife Preserve
Tuna Drive, High Island
Brazoria, National Wildlife Reserve
Kerr Wildlife Management Area, Kerrville
South Llano River State Park
Kickapoo Cavern State Park
Seminole Canyon State Park
Judge Roy Bean Cactus Garden
Fort Davis State Park
Davis Mountain State Park
Chihuahuan Desert Centre
Christmas Mountain Oasis
Gateway to Big Bend National Park
Mitchell Lake, Audubon Centre
& incidental stops
MV Skimmer, Rockport Birding & Kayak adventures
Total species: 293
New species: yet to be determined
Miles travelled : 3628
